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You are here: AUSTRALIA -> SA -> EYRE PENINSULA

The Eyre Peninsula

The triangular Eyre Peninsula is a vast region which stretches from the sheltered Spencer Gulf in the east, to the fringes of the South Australian side of great Nullarbor Plain in the west. Connecting Port Augusta with Ceduna (see Outback), the Eyre Highway represents the shortest passage across the peninsula, shaving nearly three hundred kilometres of the coastal route. The Lincoln and Flinders Highways (Alternative Hwy 1) connects the same two towns, but their extended path along the coast is far more rewarding.

Port Augusta with the backdrop of the Flinders RangesSet in the shadow of the South Flinders Ranges and at the apex of the Spencer Gulf, the thriving industrial port of Port Augusta is a major stopping point for travellers. Not only does it serve as a stopover for the famous Ghan (Adelaide to Alice Springs N.T.) and Indian Pacific (Perth to Sydney) Railways, but it lies on the cross roads of many of South Australia's main highways. From here, roads branch north to the Flinders Ranges and outback, east to Broken Hill and New South Wales, west to the Nullarbor and Western Australia, south to Adelaide, and south-west towards the many coastal towns of the Eyre Peninsula. Born out of the area's constant influx of out-of-towners, Port Augusta has plenty of accommodation, a huge supermarket to stock up supplies, and a variety of places to get a meal.

Hotel Augusta While in Port Augusta, there is much to do and see to keep visitors amused. Those heading towards the Flinders Ranges, outback, or Eyre Peninsula should make the time for a visit to the award winning Wadlata Outback Centre, incorporated within the tourist office on Flinders Terrace. The centre provides an informative and hands-on introduction to the region's attractions and sights, as well as a comprehensive look into the local Aboriginal and European history. Close by on Commercial Road, the town's first train station has been superbly restored and now houses the colourful Curdnatta Art and Pottery Gallery. Also in town, the Homestead Park Pioneer Museum features an original 130 year old log homestead, a blacksmiths shop, a classic steam train, and hundreds of antique photographs depicting an earlier era.

Pink lake and the Flinders Ranges On the northern outskirts of Port Augusta, the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden covers 250 hectares of diverse, desert flora, complimented by a series walking trails and a cafe. On eastern fringes of town by the bizarre pink lake, tours of the Northern Power Station are another a popular activity, not only because they're free, but because they're actually very interesting. Tours operate twice a day between Mondays and Fridays, and begin at 11am and 1pm.

Port Augusta's enticing eastern backdrop of the South Flinders Ranges is also close enough for easy exploration, and the ideal place to begin is just 45 kilometres south-east of town at the Hancocks Lookout. At the peak of the range via a seven kilometre detour off Highway 56, the lookout affords breathtaking views over the beautiful Spencer Gulf and its surrounding countryside. Back on the highway and travelling deeper into the South Flinders, the next stop is the quaint mountain village of Wilmington. From Wilmington, the ranges most spectacular features are contained within the nearby Mount Remarkable National Park, encompassing over 15 000 hectares of rugged landscapes, dense vegetation, abundant View from Hancock's Lookout wildlife, and a network of leisurely bush walks. One of the most popular walks is the thrilling descent into the peaceful and colourful Alligator Gorge. For more enthusiastic hikers, there is a trail to the summit of Mount Remarkable itself, though you'll need to travel 24 kilometres south of Wilmington to the tiny township of Melrose for access. Melrose and Wilmington also provide a range of accommodation for extended visits, and their classic old pubs are perfect for a refreshing drink after a hot days hiking.


Travelling south-east on Highway 56 from Wilmington, the road eventually meets with the important Barrier Highway just over a hundred kilometres later. The Barrier Highway is one of South Australia's major inland routes, connecting Adelaide with the New South Wales outback and beyond. If you are heading towards N.S.W., the old railway township of Petersborough (14 kilometres from the intersection) represents the last decent sized town to stock up supplies before the long 270 kilometre trek to Broken Hill. There's also several places to stay and eat, as well as a number of worthwhile attractions based predominantly around Petersborough's historical past.

Back on the Spencer Gulf and 93 kilometres south of Port Augusta, Port Pirie is the major commercial and industry centre of the region. Although the town is scenically set on the Port Pirie River and the shores of the gulf, the skyline is somewhat marred by a series of enormous grain silos and towering lead-smelting chimneys. The town's main attraction is the excellent Regional Tourism and Arts Centre, hosting both local and touring art exhibitions. History buffs will also appreciate the National Trust Museum, a display which includes several of Port Pirie's old buildings as well as the town's first railway station.

25 kilometres south-west of Port Augusta, the Lincoln Highway branches off the Eyre Highway to begin its journey around the Eyre Peninsula's coastline. Although the littoral route adds 274 kilometres to the trip to Ceduna and the Nullarbor Plain (see Outback), the superb coastal scenery and enjoyable seaside towns along the sheltered Spencer Gulf and the wilder Great Australian Bight, make the extra distance hardly noticeable.

BHP steelworks from the Hummock Hill Lookout48 kilometres south of the Lincoln Highway's beginnings, Whyalla is the first of the towns on the Spencer Gulf, although a dedication to heavy industry has seen it grow into largest city outside Adelaide in the state. Appreciation of the sheer scale of the operation can be obtained from the city's Hummock Hill Lookout, which peers down on the colossal BHP steel works and it's immense deep water port. For a closer look, BHP runs cheap and interesting tours on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, starting from the tourist office (Lincoln Hwy) at 9:30am. Long shirts, trousers, and sealed shoes are essential. Other attractions include historical exhibits at the Maritime Museum and the Mt. Laura Homestead, and the 50 or so species of native reptiles and mammals housed within the Whyalla Wildlife and Reptile Sanctuary, are also worth a visit.

Crabbing in Cowell's Harbour Another 107 kilometres down the coast, Cowell is a peaceful and incredibly friendly fishing town, which tempts visitors to stay longer than they originally planned. Oysters can be bought for as little as five dollars a dozen, and if you run into "Bear" or "Raz" at one of the town's classic old pubs, buy them a beer and they will happily disclose the area's best fishing spots, and may even take you out on the harbour for a bout of crabbing. Via a gravel road stretching from the outskirts of town, Cowell also boasts several spectacular white beaches, perfect for secluded swimming and sunbathing.

Further down the coast, the tranquil little seaside resort towns of Arno Bay and Port Neill each lie on a pretty slice of the Eyre Peninsula coastline, conducive to a relaxing day of swimming or throwing in a line. Both provide a small range of accommodation, and car enthusiasts will appreciate Port Neill's vintage vehicle museum.

Pier at Tumby Bay 38 kilometres beyond Port Neill, Tumby Bay is a handsome seaside town, renowned for its beautiful old buildings, quaint craft outlets, and in particular its long and stunning crescent shaped beach. The town also provides charters to the colonies of sea lions, sea birds, and dolphins which are protected by a marine conservation park, 15 kilometres off-shore at the Sir Joseph Banks Islands.

Back on the overland route to the Nullarbor, Kimba is tiny town on the Eyre Highway, 155 kilometres west of Port Augusta. A popular rest stop on this predominantly barren journey, Kimba not only provides travellers with all essential services, but a rare chance to examine some locally mined and crafted Australian jade.

At the southern end of the Eyre Peninsula, Port Lincoln is a large fishing town idyllically set on the brilliant and expansive waters of Boston Bay. This beautiful natural harbour not only encourages a wealth of watersports such as sailing, water-skiing, swimming and fishing, but shelters Australia's largest tuna fishing fleet and the town's ultra modern tuna-farming operation. This culmination has seen Port Lincoln become the largest exporter of commercial fish in the country, and the community celebrates the start of the season every year by hosting the weird and wonderful Tunarama Festival.

Sealions Getting out on the area's waterways is not a problem, with a variety of charters and cruises operating out of Lincoln Cove. Boats with special viewing platforms provide lunch while extending an unparalleled look at at the impressive tuna farms. Larger vessels travel out to the sealion colonies on the off-shore islands, and some even go as far as the great white sharks breeding grounds off Dangerous Reef. In town, there are a number a historical exhibits and buildings open to anyone who's curious. Most notable is the Old Mill, whose elevated site offers sensational views over the bay. The town is also equipt with plenty of eating establishments, and the range of accommodation is as you would expect of any popular holiday destination.

Port Lincoln also makes the ideal base from which to explore the nearby Lincoln and Coffin Bay National Parks. Within easy striking distance to the south of town, the "Y" shaped Lincoln National Park is renowned for its untouched wilderness and breathtakingly rugged coastline of sheer cliff faces, sheltered coves, and impressive surf beaches. You'll need to get a pass from the parks office on Liverpool Street to enter, and Oysters those that wish to camp can acquire permits at the office as well. Less than thirty kilometres to the west of Port Lincoln, the coastal landscape encompassed by the Coffin Bay Natural Park is equally spectacular to its eastern neighbour, and access to its beauty lies just of the Flinders Highway via the tiny holiday hamlet of Coffin Bay. Coffin Bay is a picturesque little town worth a visit in own right, offering great fishing and swimming in its nearby estuary, which also happens to produce some of the best oysters in the country.

Travelling beyond Coffin Bay, the Flinders Highway begins its journey up the Great Australian Bight side of the Eyre Peninsula. A majority of the route runs about ten kilometres inland, passing by the vast Beach fishing at Elliston salt pans of the Greenly, Malata, and Hamilton Lakes before finally touching the coast at Elliston. Elliston is a small fishing town whose tranquil setting on Waterloo Bay have led it to become a quietly popular holiday destination. Views of the bay are available from the town's cliff top walk, and the rest of the area's striking coastline can be soaked in via scenic drives, running both north and south of the town centre. The Elliston area's is also one of several good salmon fishing spots along this side of the peninsula.

Just up the road from Elliston is Venus Bay. A picturesque seaside holiday town which sits on a narrow peninsula overlooking Venus Bay and its islands. It is quiet, peaceful and friendly and its tranquil sheltered waters provide an absolute mecca for the small boat and jetty fisherman as well as water-skiing, swimming, canoeing or sailing. The town lookout offers breathtaking views of towering cliffs and booming surf rolling in from the Great Australian Bight. Keen board riders can also view surf conditions of nearby surf beaches from here.

Murphy's Haystacks Approximately eighty kilometres north-west of Elliston, the strange pink rock formations (technically speaking their inselbergs) by the highway known as "Murphy's Haystacks", make for unusual photo opportunity en route to Streaky Bay. Streaky Bay is another gorgeous little fishing town come quiet seaside resort, beautifully set on the stunning natural harbour of the same name. When the explorer Matthew Flinders first sailed into the bay in the early 19th century, long strands of seaweed created a streaking effect in the lucid waters, and lo and behold, the town's name was born. While in Streaky Bay, seafood lovers will adore the area's succulent oysters, and surfers should check out the break at Back Beach. Overlooking the bay, good meals, ale, and atmosphere can all be found at the flash and friendly Streaky Bay Community Hotel/Motel.

From Streaky Bay, the Flinders Highway begins its final 100 kilometre stretch northwards, before rejoining the Eyre Highway just eight kilometres east of Ceduna (see Outback). On the Eyre Highway 209 kilometres west of Ceduda, the township of Wudinna is a favoured stopping point for those taking the barren inland route across the Eyre Peninsula.

Text provided courtesy of FrogandToad.
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