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-> EYRE
PENINSULA
The triangular Eyre
Peninsula is a vast region which stretches from the
sheltered Spencer Gulf in the east, to the fringes of the
South Australian side of great Nullarbor Plain in the west.
Connecting Port Augusta with Ceduna (see Outback), the Eyre
Highway represents the shortest passage across the
peninsula, shaving nearly three hundred kilometres of the
coastal route. The Lincoln and Flinders Highways
(Alternative Hwy 1) connects the same two towns, but their
extended path along the coast is far more
rewarding.
Set
in the shadow of the South Flinders Ranges and at the apex
of the Spencer Gulf, the thriving industrial port of Port
Augusta is a major stopping point for travellers. Not
only does it serve as a stopover for the famous Ghan
(Adelaide to Alice Springs N.T.) and Indian Pacific (Perth
to Sydney) Railways, but it lies on the cross roads of many
of South Australia's main highways. From here, roads branch
north to the Flinders Ranges and outback, east to Broken
Hill and New South Wales, west to the Nullarbor and Western
Australia, south to Adelaide, and south-west towards the
many coastal towns of the Eyre Peninsula. Born out of the
area's constant influx of out-of-towners, Port Augusta has
plenty of accommodation, a huge supermarket to stock up
supplies, and a variety of places to get a meal.
While in Port Augusta, there is much to do and see to keep
visitors amused. Those heading towards the Flinders Ranges,
outback, or Eyre Peninsula should make the time for a visit
to the award winning Wadlata Outback Centre, incorporated
within the tourist office on Flinders Terrace. The centre
provides an informative and hands-on introduction to the
region's attractions and sights, as well as a comprehensive
look into the local Aboriginal and European history. Close
by on Commercial Road, the town's first train station has
been superbly restored and now houses the colourful
Curdnatta Art and Pottery Gallery. Also in town, the
Homestead Park Pioneer Museum features an original 130 year
old log homestead, a blacksmiths shop, a classic steam
train, and hundreds of antique photographs depicting an
earlier era.
On the northern outskirts of Port Augusta, the Australian
Arid Lands Botanic Garden covers 250 hectares of diverse,
desert flora, complimented by a series walking trails and a
cafe. On eastern fringes of town by the bizarre pink lake,
tours of the Northern Power Station are another a popular
activity, not only because they're free, but because they're
actually very interesting. Tours operate twice a day between
Mondays and Fridays, and begin at 11am and 1pm.
Port Augusta's enticing
eastern backdrop of the South Flinders Ranges is also close
enough for easy exploration, and the ideal place to begin is
just 45 kilometres south-east of town at the Hancocks
Lookout. At the peak of the range via a seven kilometre
detour off Highway 56, the lookout affords breathtaking
views over the beautiful Spencer Gulf and its surrounding
countryside. Back on the highway and travelling deeper into
the South Flinders, the next stop is the quaint mountain
village of Wilmington. From Wilmington, the ranges
most spectacular features are contained within the nearby
Mount Remarkable National Park, encompassing over 15 000
hectares of rugged landscapes, dense vegetation, abundant
wildlife, and a network of leisurely bush walks. One of the
most popular walks is the thrilling descent into the
peaceful and colourful Alligator Gorge. For more
enthusiastic hikers, there is a trail to the summit of Mount
Remarkable itself, though you'll need to travel 24
kilometres south of Wilmington to the tiny township of
Melrose for access. Melrose and Wilmington also
provide a range of accommodation for extended visits, and
their classic old pubs are perfect for a refreshing drink
after a hot days hiking.
Travelling south-east on Highway 56 from Wilmington, the
road eventually meets with the important Barrier Highway
just over a hundred kilometres later. The Barrier Highway is
one of South Australia's major inland routes, connecting
Adelaide with the New South Wales outback and beyond. If you
are heading towards N.S.W., the old railway township of
Petersborough (14 kilometres from the intersection)
represents the last decent sized town to stock up supplies
before the long 270 kilometre trek to Broken Hill. There's
also several places to stay and eat, as well as a number of
worthwhile attractions based predominantly around
Petersborough's historical past.
Back on the Spencer Gulf
and 93 kilometres south of Port Augusta, Port Pirie
is the major commercial and industry centre of the region.
Although the town is scenically set on the Port Pirie River
and the shores of the gulf, the skyline is somewhat marred
by a series of enormous grain silos and towering
lead-smelting chimneys. The town's main attraction is the
excellent Regional Tourism and Arts Centre, hosting both
local and touring art exhibitions. History buffs will also
appreciate the National Trust Museum, a display which
includes several of Port Pirie's old buildings as well as
the town's first railway station.
25 kilometres south-west
of Port Augusta, the Lincoln Highway branches off the Eyre
Highway to begin its journey around the Eyre Peninsula's
coastline. Although the littoral route adds 274 kilometres
to the trip to Ceduna and the Nullarbor Plain (see Outback),
the superb coastal scenery and enjoyable seaside towns along
the sheltered Spencer Gulf and the wilder Great Australian
Bight, make the extra distance hardly noticeable.
48
kilometres south of the Lincoln Highway's beginnings,
Whyalla is the first of the towns on the Spencer
Gulf, although a dedication to heavy industry has seen it
grow into largest city outside Adelaide in the state.
Appreciation of the sheer scale of the operation can be
obtained from the city's Hummock Hill Lookout, which peers
down on the colossal BHP steel works and it's immense deep
water port. For a closer look, BHP runs cheap and
interesting tours on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays,
starting from the tourist office (Lincoln Hwy) at 9:30am.
Long shirts, trousers, and sealed shoes are essential. Other
attractions include historical exhibits at the Maritime
Museum and the Mt. Laura Homestead, and the 50 or so species
of native reptiles and mammals housed within the Whyalla
Wildlife and Reptile Sanctuary, are also worth a
visit.
Another 107 kilometres down the coast, Cowell is a
peaceful and incredibly friendly fishing town, which tempts
visitors to stay longer than they originally planned.
Oysters can be bought for as little as five dollars a dozen,
and if you run into "Bear" or "Raz" at one of the town's
classic old pubs, buy them a beer and they will happily
disclose the area's best fishing spots, and may even take
you out on the harbour for a bout of crabbing. Via a gravel
road stretching from the outskirts of town, Cowell also
boasts several spectacular white beaches, perfect for
secluded swimming and sunbathing.
Further down the coast,
the tranquil little seaside resort towns of Arno Bay
and Port Neill each lie on a pretty slice of the Eyre
Peninsula coastline, conducive to a relaxing day of swimming
or throwing in a line. Both provide a small range of
accommodation, and car enthusiasts will appreciate Port
Neill's vintage vehicle museum.
38 kilometres beyond Port Neill, Tumby Bay is a
handsome seaside town, renowned for its beautiful old
buildings, quaint craft outlets, and in particular its long
and stunning crescent shaped beach. The town also provides
charters to the colonies of sea lions, sea birds, and
dolphins which are protected by a marine conservation park,
15 kilometres off-shore at the Sir Joseph Banks
Islands.
Back on the overland route
to the Nullarbor, Kimba is tiny town on the Eyre
Highway, 155 kilometres west of Port Augusta. A popular rest
stop on this predominantly barren journey, Kimba not only
provides travellers with all essential services, but a rare
chance to examine some locally mined and crafted Australian
jade.
At the southern end of the
Eyre Peninsula, Port Lincoln is a large fishing town
idyllically set on the brilliant and expansive waters of
Boston Bay. This beautiful natural harbour not only
encourages a wealth of watersports such as sailing,
water-skiing, swimming and fishing, but shelters Australia's
largest tuna fishing fleet and the town's ultra modern
tuna-farming operation. This culmination has seen Port
Lincoln become the largest exporter of commercial fish in
the country, and the community celebrates the start of the
season every year by hosting the weird and wonderful
Tunarama Festival.
Getting out on the area's waterways is not a problem, with a
variety of charters and cruises operating out of Lincoln
Cove. Boats with special viewing platforms provide lunch
while extending an unparalleled look at at the impressive
tuna farms. Larger vessels travel out to the sealion
colonies on the off-shore islands, and some even go as far
as the great white sharks breeding grounds off Dangerous
Reef. In town, there are a number a historical exhibits and
buildings open to anyone who's curious. Most notable is the
Old Mill, whose elevated site offers sensational views over
the bay. The town is also equipt with plenty of eating
establishments, and the range of accommodation is as you
would expect of any popular holiday destination.
Port Lincoln also makes
the ideal base from which to explore the nearby Lincoln and
Coffin Bay National Parks. Within easy striking distance to
the south of town, the "Y" shaped Lincoln National Park is
renowned for its untouched wilderness and breathtakingly
rugged coastline of sheer cliff faces, sheltered coves, and
impressive surf beaches. You'll need to get a pass from the
parks office on Liverpool Street to enter, and
those that wish to camp can acquire permits at the office as
well. Less than thirty kilometres to the west of Port
Lincoln, the coastal landscape encompassed by the Coffin Bay
Natural Park is equally spectacular to its eastern
neighbour, and access to its beauty lies just of the
Flinders Highway via the tiny holiday hamlet of Coffin
Bay. Coffin Bay is a picturesque little town worth a
visit in own right, offering great fishing and swimming in
its nearby estuary, which also happens to produce some of
the best oysters in the country.
Travelling beyond Coffin
Bay, the Flinders Highway begins its journey up the Great
Australian Bight side of the Eyre Peninsula. A majority of
the route runs about ten kilometres inland, passing by the
vast
salt pans of the Greenly, Malata, and Hamilton Lakes before
finally touching the coast at Elliston. Elliston is a
small fishing town whose tranquil setting on Waterloo Bay
have led it to become a quietly popular holiday destination.
Views of the bay are available from the town's cliff top
walk, and the rest of the area's striking coastline can be
soaked in via scenic drives, running both north and south of
the town centre. The Elliston area's is also one of several
good salmon fishing spots along this side of the
peninsula.
Just up the road from
Elliston is Venus Bay. A picturesque seaside holiday
town which sits on a narrow peninsula overlooking Venus Bay
and its islands. It is quiet, peaceful and friendly and its
tranquil sheltered waters provide an absolute mecca for the
small boat and jetty fisherman as well as water-skiing,
swimming, canoeing or sailing. The town lookout offers
breathtaking views of towering cliffs and booming surf
rolling in from the Great Australian Bight. Keen board
riders can also view surf conditions of nearby surf beaches
from here.
Approximately eighty kilometres north-west of Elliston, the
strange pink rock formations (technically speaking their
inselbergs) by the highway known as "Murphy's Haystacks",
make for unusual photo opportunity en route to Streaky
Bay. Streaky Bay is another gorgeous little fishing town
come quiet seaside resort, beautifully set on the stunning
natural harbour of the same name. When the explorer Matthew
Flinders first sailed into the bay in the early 19th
century, long strands of seaweed created a streaking effect
in the lucid waters, and lo and behold, the town's name was
born. While in Streaky Bay, seafood lovers will adore the
area's succulent oysters, and surfers should check out the
break at Back Beach. Overlooking the bay, good meals, ale,
and atmosphere can all be found at the flash and friendly
Streaky Bay Community Hotel/Motel.
From Streaky Bay, the
Flinders Highway begins its final 100 kilometre stretch
northwards, before rejoining the Eyre Highway just eight
kilometres east of Ceduna (see Outback). On the Eyre Highway
209 kilometres west of Ceduda, the township of
Wudinna is a favoured stopping point for those taking
the barren inland route across the Eyre
Peninsula.
Text provided
courtesy of FrogandToad.
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