From Port Augusta (see Eyre Peninsula) the Stuart Highway begins it's long and often monotonous journey through the centre of South Australia's arid and hot outback, en-route to Alice Springs and the Northern Territory. Not dissimilar to the trek across the Nullarbor, the highway is serviced by several roadhouses and small towns, although there are barren gaps of up to 254 kilometres. Travellers need to be well prepared for the trip by carrying adequate supplies of water and food, and some extra petrol is not a bad idea either. The temperature is another consideration, with the mercury consistently reaching up to 50 degrees Celsius during the Summer, so you might like to plan your trip for an alternative season. Also, remember to give your vehicle a thorough check over before departure, and keep an eye out for loitering livestock, kangaroos, and wedge tailed eagles.

Via a forty one kilometre scenic drive from Port Augusta (see Eyre Peninsula), the charming old railway town of Quorn lies in the foothills of the colourful South Flinders Ranges. Apart from it's art galleries and the classic 19th century buildings which still line the streets, Quorn is best known for its vintage train which travels a 33 kilometre loop through the picturesque Pichi Richi Pass. The train operates between April and October, and leaves from the old station on the edge of town.

Heading north-east of Quorn, the highway passes through the flat, hot, and arid landscape which the early settlers of the region found so unrelenting and inhospitable. Testament to this is the scattering of once grand homesteads lying by the roadside, now known as the Kanyaka Ruins. The ruins are sign posted as historical relics, and provide some interesting stopping points on the 105 kilometre journey to Hawker.

Hawker is a laid back outback town firmly established on the tourist trail as the gateway to the fabulous Flinders Ranges National Park. The 95 000 hectare park's most famous and dominant feature is Wilpena Pound, a enormous natural amphitheatre ringed by colossal, multi-coloured cliffs which change shade as the sun crosses the sky. The walls rise to a sheer 500 metres high in places, the only entrance into the Pound is via a narrow gap, patiently carved by the Wilpena Creek over the past 100 million years. Once on the inside, the vegetated basin which recedes gently up to the surrounding peaks, creates the perfect wildlife sanctuary and provides the home for several species of kangaroos, wallabies, and parrots as well as plenty of lizards, emus, and circling wedge-tailed eagles.

All walks into the Pound begin at the tiny settlement of Wilpena, which consists of the helpful visitors centre, the Wilpena Pound Resort, a camping ground, and the area's only petrol station. Just 52 kilometres away, Hawker is a popular base for explorations as well, offering a larger (and cheaper) range of accommodation and more places to eat.

Travelling north of Hawker on Highway 83, the road passes by some more historical ruins on it's 89 kilometre passage to the miniscule town of Parachilna. After having a refreshing drink and a hearty meal at the town's great outback pub, most visitors to the area then detour of the highway and head east towards Blinman. Blinman provides the best access to the fantastic limestone features like The Great Wall of China, encompassed in the northern expanses of the Flinders Ranges National Park. Accommodation here consists of another top pub, as well a number of sheep stations which open their shearers quarters up for travellers (see Farmstays in Accommodation). This is a top way to experience the essence of the Australian outback, and some of the stations even offer guided tours and camel safaris.

The 32 kilometre unsealed road (usually OK for conventional vehicles) winding from Parachilna to Blinman makes the detour worthwhile in itself. The road passes through the majestic Parachilna Gorge, which has become the superb natural backdrop for the Angorichina Tourist Village. The village provides the starting point for the exciting hike to the spring fed Blinman Pools, as well as general store, petrol, and a good variety of accommodation.

Back on Highway 83 and 67 kilometres north of Parachilna is the surprisingly verdant mining town of Leigh Creek. Freshly established in 1980, the town's landscaped gardens create a dramatic contrast to the surrounding arid countryside, and give the town a unique outback feel. Leigh Creek produces over 40 percent of the state's coal, and it's main attraction is the huge open cut mine of which complimentary tours are available. Just north of town, those travelling in a 4WD can head east towards the very remote Gammon Ranges National Park and the Arkaroola Resort.

34 kilometres north of the turn-off to Arkaroola, the tiny settlement of Lyndhurst marks the point where the Strzelecki Track heads north-east for the tiny outpost of Innamincka (near the Queensland Border), and where the Oodnadatta Track begins it's long overland journey to the centre of the South Australian Outback. Marree is the first sign of life on the Oodnadatta Track, lying 79 kilometres from Lyndhurst in the middle of the region's desolate saltbush country. Until recently, Marree was best known as the end of the legendary cattle route, the Birdville Track. As recently as the 1960's, Queensland stockman used to drive their cattle for over 1000 kilometres for loading at Marree's railway station. Today, the tiny township has gained notoriety from the "Marree Man", an enormous outline of an Aboriginal warrior plowed anonymously into the salty desert plain.

Following the Oodnadatta Track beyond Marree, it's 200 kilometres to the services at William Creek, and then another 205 kilometres to Oodnadatta (see below). The road's usually OK for conventional vehicles, but it's always a good idea to gather some local knowledge before heading out.

180 kilometres north of Port Augusta, the first sign of civilisation lies seven kilometres off the Stuart Highway at the township of Woomera. Established as a British rocket testing site in 1947, the township has only been open to the public since 1982. In town, the Missile Park and Heritage Centre provides some insight into Woomera's interesting past, as well as displaying an array of missiles, aircraft, and other weapons. Places to stay include a pub and a travellers village offering camping, backpacker, and motel styles of accommodation.

Directly north of Woomera, Roxby Downs is a modern company town built to support the enormous operations at the Olympic Dam mining project. The mine produces over 2 million tonnes of copper, silver, uranium oxide, and gold annually, and surface tours of this impressive set-up are available from March to November. The same tour company also offers trips around Woomera, and to the nearby opal-mining township of Andamooka. Roxby Downs and Andamooka both provide a couple of accommodation options.

Back on the Stuart Highway, the next services are found at Glendambo , 113 kilometres north-west of Woomera. Considering that Glendambo was established less than twenty years ago, the tiny settlement has a good range of facilities including a motel, two roadhouses, a caravan park, and a friendly pub. Beyond Glendambo, the highway travels through the Woomera Prohibited Area, and besides from the immediate roadside, people are unable to enter the surrounding land without a permit (it's not that inviting anyway). It's also the highway's longest stretch without a sign of civilisation, and it's 254 kilometres up the road before it finally reaches Coober Pedy.

Supposedly Aboriginal for "white fellow's hole in the ground" Coober Pedy is Australia's (if not the world's) premier opal producing regions. Enveloped by some of Australia's most inhospitable landscape, this remote outpost halfway between Alice Springs and Port Augusta receives over 150 000 visitors every year! Although many use the town as a rest stop to break up their long journey, most come here to experience a community unlike any other in the world. Churches, shopping centres, hotels, hostels, and over half of the resident's homes are carved out of the earth, due not only from the area's total lack of timber, but because the thick dirt walls and ceilings create the perfect protection against the area's climatic extremes. Tours operating within the town include a gander inside a number of the "dugouts", and most visitors are extremely surprised to discover just how lavish and comfortable they are.

Opals are obviously the other reason that Coober Pedy is so firmly established on the tourist trail. There are over 250 000 mine shafts surrounding the town, and literally hundreds still working. You can have a fossick yourself, but be very wary as many of the old shafts and diggings are unmarked and sometimes well camouflaged. You also have to be extemely careful not to trespass on somebody else's claim, as the minimum fine is one thousand dollars. The safest option is to jump on a mine tour, or visit the fossicking area set aside by the Jeweller's Shop at the north east corner of town. Other most notable attractions in town include the Big Winch Lookout, the Old Timers Mine, Umoona Opal Mine Museum, and a myriad of opal outlets demonstrating the process of cutting and polishing.

23 kilometres north of Coober Pedy following the Stuart Highway, a track (usually OK for conventional vehicles) branching to the right runs past the barren but striking rock outcrops contained within the Breakaways Reserve. So impressive is this unique arid landscape, many commercials and the feature films Mad Max III and Priscilla, Queen of the Desert have all used the area as their natural backdrop. 129 kilometres north of the turn-off to the reserve, the Cagney Homestead represents the next opportunity to fill up your tank and your stomach.

Benefiting from the re-routing of the Ghan Railway (Adelaide to Alice Springs) in 1980, Marla is the relatively new regional centre of the of the upper stretches of the South Australian Outback. 83 kilometres north of the Cagney Homestead, and only 150 kilometres from the Northern Territory border (169 kilometres to fuel at Kulgera see Central Australia N.T.), Marla serves as a popular pit stop as well, offering a good array of services, and several places to stay.

If your not quite ready to leave the South Australia yet, or if you've just arrived from the Territory and ready to do some serious overland exploring (4WD's only), the famous Oodnadatta Track branches east from Marla and arrives at the classic outback town of the same name a bumpy 200 kilometres later. From Oonandatta it another 405 kilometres to Marree (see adjacent section).