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You are
here: AUSTRALIA
-> SA
-> KANGAROO
ISLAND
Lying
less than 20 kilometres off-shore from the tip of the
Fleurieu Peninsula, the pristine coastline, striking
landscapes and abundant wildlife of Kangaroo Island
(Australia's third largest) has led it to become South
Australia's most exciting ecological drawcard. Having been
estranged from the mainland for nearly 10,000 years, the
island's isolation has evolved into its greatest asset, and
the lack of both development and destructive introduced
species like foxes, cats, and rabbits, has allowed much of
the environment and its thriving native fauna population to
remain virtually unchanged. An amazing thirty percent of the
island is now protected by numerous parks and wilderness
areas, and visitors can expect to see wallabies, koalas,
lizards, sea lions and seals, and as the name would suggest,
plenty of kangaroos. Those who travel west to the majestic
Flinders Chase National Park may even be lucky enough to
spot some of Australia's shyer creatures, such as the spiny
echidna and the ever elusive platypus. Kangaroo Island is
also a bird watchers paradise, boasting over 200 species
which range from colourful lorikeets and parrots, to fairy
penguins, pelicans, emus, albatrosses and the rare Cape
Barren goose.
The most common way to get to Kangaroo Island is via a
ferry. Kangaroo Island Sealink operates two
vehicle/passenger ferries departing from Cape Jervis
(Fleurieu Peninsula) and arriving at the island's eastern
most settlement of Penneshaw all year round. During the
summer, the passenger only KI Express affords
visitors to Adelaide easy access, operating daily out of
Glenelg (see Inner Adelaide). The remaining option is to
fly, and several airlines offer daily flights from Adelaide
Airport, all landing at the island's main town of Kingscote.
Once there, apart from the free shuttle bus which runs
between Kingscote and Penneshaw, public transport is almost
non-existent, so your own vehicle would be a definite
advantage. Alternatively, there's an excellent variety of
tours on offer, as well as numerous places to rent cars,
mopeds, and bicycles (see Tours & Trips under Things To
Do). There's also an excellent range of places to stay,
ensuring a pleasant stay for any traveller on any
budget.
Most visits to Kangaroo Island begin at the peaceful resort
town of Penneshaw, set on the white sandy shores of
Hog Bay. The town's main attraction is its colony of fairy
penguins, who reliably waddle up the beach to their burrows
every evening. Guided tours run by the National Parks &
Wildlife Service (NPWS) depart just after sunset from the
Penguin Interpretative Centre, situated right beside the
main ferry terminal. The township itself offers several good
accommodation alternatives, as well as a pub, and a number
of places to grab a bite. Penneshaw is also home to the
friendly Kangaroo Island Gateway Visitors Centre, which
provides visitors with camping permits, park passes, and
anything else you might like to know.
About 30 kilometres from
Penneshaw following Hog Bay Road, a short and scenic detour
skirts by the magnificent waterways of the Pelican Lagoon
bird sanctuary, before terminating at the tiny settlement of
American River 10 kilometres down the road. The
village was named after a group of American sealers who
built and launched a 35 tonne schooner here in 1804, and
today its sheltered estuary is still a noted spot for
boating and fishing. The daily pelican feeding (4:30pm) on
the town's wharf, is also a major tourist
drawcard.
Back on Hog Bay Road, 30
kilometres beyond the turn-off to American River,
Kingscote is Kangaroo Island's largest town and main
tourist centre. Surprisingly, Kingscote became first
recognised European settlement in South Australia, only to
be abandoned in favour of the mainland less than four years
later. Documenting the difficult conditions faced by the
states first pioneers, the Hope Cottage Museum is one of a
number of National Trust classified historical sites, all of
which can be found a little north of the present town
centre.
Although famed by an
intriguing past, Kingscote is best known on the tourist
trail for it's fairy penguins and pelicans. The first of the
penguins begin to return to their burrows just after dusk
each evening, and the NPWS operates two nightly tours,
leaving from the Ozone Hotel on Kingscote Terrace at 7:30
and 8:30 pm (add an hour during daylight saving). During the
afternoons, flocks of pelicans looking for an easy meal take
centre stage at the town's jetty, putting on quite a show as
they squabble for the complimentary fish. The jetty is also
a great spot to drop in a line, with trevally, garfish, and
huge South Australian whiting all regularly taking the
bait.
During the hotter months
(and there's plenty of those in South Australia) Kingscote's
tidal pool is the best spot close to town for a refreshing
swim. 18 kilometres north of Kingscote, the brilliant blue
waters and white sandy shores of Emu Bay is a better
option, though you'll need your own transport to get
there.
Less than forty kilometres west of Kingscote following the
central Playford Highway, the rural village of
Parndana lies in the middle of Kangaroo Island's rich
farming area known as the "Plateau Country". The Parndana
Wildlife Park is the town's main tourist attraction, located
on a large property just a few kilometres from the outskirts
of town. The park gives visitors an opportunity for a more
intimate experience with many of the island's most loved
animals, and these include kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas,
and koalas as well as a variety of native birds.
Travelling north of
Parndana via a unsealed road, the tiny coastal hamlet of
Stokes Bay is well worth the bumpy detour, especially
on a warm day when it's crystal blue waters look more
inviting than ever. The walk to the beach is equally
special, with the path passing through a tunnel of boulders
before arriving at the radiant white sands and azure ocean
on the other side! The bay's sheltered waters are ideal for
a cool swim, as is the enormous enclosed rockpool at the
western end of the beach.
Approximately fifteen kilometres west of Kingscote, the
Birchmore Highway (South Coast Road) branches of the
Playford Highway, providing access to the wilder
south-western stretches of Kangaroo Island. Thirty
kilometres beyond the turn-off, a small gravel road takes a
ten kilometre detour towards the coast and the island's most
popular attraction of Seal Bay. Seal Bay is home to one of
the country's largest colonies of Australian sea lions,
which over time have become surprisingly tolerant of the
almost constant stream of excited tourists. Supervised tours
run by the NPWS allow visitors to get astonishingly close to
these beautiful animals, who will be either lazing about on
the beach or playing in the surf. Tours are conducted every
45 minutes throughout the day, kicking off as early as 9:00
in the morning.
Heading further west on
the South Coast Road, an impressive group of enormous white
sand dunes collectively known as the "Little Sahara",
dominate the landscape less than ten kilometres from the
turn-off to Seal Bay. Also worthy of a stop are the Kelly
Hill Caves, a further 30 kilometres or so west of the dunes.
The largest cave contains many spectacular limestone
formations, most of which can be appreciated via the
frequent, 50 minute guided tours which begin just off the
main road at the informative Caves Visitors
Centre.
Another 17 kilometre west
of the Kelly Hill Caves, the scenic South Coast Road comes
to a fitting end amidst the splendour of the must see
Flinders Chase National Park. Encompassing the entire
western end of the island, the park protects 74 000 hectares
of soaring eucalypts, mallee forests, low-growing coastal
shrubs, and more wildlife than you can poke a stick at. It's
also home to some of South Australia's most breathtaking
coastline, with the Admirals Arch and the Remarkable Rocks
being the most famous examples of the park's dramatic
littoral landscape.
The majority of Flinders Chase's highlights and bush walking
trails lie within a twenty kilometre radius of the friendly
and informative park headquarters, located at the end of
South Coast Road at Rocky River . Most of the places
to stay are also in the same region, although these are
limited to a few campgrounds and a farmstay. The only other
accommodation alternative on this side of the island are the
homely lighthouse-keepers cottages, set beside the grand old
lighthouse at the southern most tip of the park (enquire at
the park headquarters for more information). While in the
Rocky River area, be prepared to be approached by a barrage
of fearless kangaroos and emus looking for an easy feed. For
refuge, there is a fenced off picnic ground for those who'd
prefer to eat in peace. Enjoy your stay!
Text provided
courtesy of FrogandToad.
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