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-> YORKE
PENINSULA
Resembling a little Italy
without the football, the boot shaped Yorke
Peninsula is one of South Australia's great detours. The
Yorke is surprisingly undeveloped considering its close
proximity to Adelaide, and a large percentage of the
predominantly flat countryside is blanketed by some of the
world's richest wheat and barley fields. Although
agriculture is the region's primary industry these days, it
originally gained prominence when huge copper-ore deposits
were discovered here in the mid 19th century. Scores of
Cornish miners and their families poured into the area, and
most found residence in the three flourishing towns of the
"Copper Triangle". The areas' inherent Cornish influence
eventually led the towns to being collectively known as
Little Cornwall, and today they are just as charming as they
were 140 years ago. Each abounds with historical buildings
and attractions, and this step back in time is one of the
major highlights of the Yorke Peninsula.
The
Yorke Penisula's other major drawcard is it's breathtaking
stretch of secluded sandy beaches, interrupted only by an
occasional headland and a scattering of friendly holiday
hamlets. The coastline's beauty seems to culminate at the
toe, and the series of dramatic cliffs, superb surf beaches,
and wildlife rich hinterland is protected by the fabulous
and must see Innes National Park. Before entering the Yorke
Peninsula, visitors have the added opportunity of touring
through the gorgeous towns and award-winning wineries of the
beautiful Clare Valley.
The Copper
Triangle
Located
on its north-west shoulder, the Yorke Peninsula's three main
towns of Moonta, Kadina, and Wallaroo are grouped together
in a district known as the Copper Triangle. Initial signs of
the area's huge copper deposit were discovered by a lowly
shepherd in 1857, and over the next few years as copper
finds increased, Cornish miners and their families flooded
into the triangle to find their fortunes. The settlements
which accumulated around the three primary mines grew into
prosperous towns, and the industry became so large that it
was able to bail the entire state out of its bankruptcy
dilemmas in the late 19th century. For sixty years the
miners and townsfolk enjoyed a lifestyle of wealth and
prominence, but as some pessimist once said, good times
never last (the NASDAQ is more than an appropriate example).
By 1923, a slump in world copper prices and the ever
dwindling supply of ore led to the closure of every mine,
and ultimately caused the dispersion of a majority of the
area's population. Since the mass exodus it's almost as
though the region has been frozen in time, though it's
through this sheer lack of development that the area has
gained its greatest asset. Each town boasts a rich colonial
flavour through their many fine old buildings, churches,
homesteads and historical museums. The Copper Triangle's
strong Cornish heritage has not been lost either, with the
town's communities joining forces every odd numbered year to
host the famous and award winning Kernewek Lowender
Festival.
At
the southern corner of the Copper Triangle, Moonta
was the location of the most successful mine, and today the
actual digging is one of the town's main historical
attractions. The rest lie in and around the town's abundance
of superb colonial buildings, which are best discovered via
the Moonta Heritage Walk. The trail files by over sixty
points of interest, and travels through and around a
community whose passion lies clearly within it's past. All
relevant information is available at the town's tourist
office, located in the old train station. The township also
lies close to the coastline of the Spencer Gulf, and there
are some good swimming beaches at both Moonta Bay and
Port Hughes. Port Hughes lies only a few kilometres
south of Moonta, and is renowned spot for serious anglers.
There's a great range of deep sea fishing charters operating
out of this tiny hamlet, and there's also a small splashing
of seaside accommodation.
19 kilometres north-east
of Moonta, Kadina is the largest of the Copper
Triangle towns, and the "capital" of the Yorke Peninsula.
The community has diversified since the heady days of the
copper industry, and now serves the rich agricultural land
of the district. Despite this diversification, there are
still more than fifty historical sites scattered throughout
the township, and the most noteworthy include the Kadina
Heritage Museum, the old Wallaroo Mine, and the classic
Royal Exchange and Wombat Hotels. Enthusiastic tourists who
wish to visit the lot can pick a Discovering Historic
Kadina leaflet from one of the local newsagents.
Travellers on a budget should also be aware that Kadina's
main shopping centre is of rare size for the Yorke, and the
only one with a large supermarket.
Less than ten kilometres
west of Kadina, the port of Wallaroo was originally
established to process and ship the vast qualities of copper
ore being unearthed from the nearby mines. It's survived as
a major port, though these days the cargo is grain instead
of metal. To take in the town's numerous places of interest,
there's a couple of historic paths to follow. Both trails
begin at the interesting Wallaroo Heritage & Maritime
Museum (located in the old post office), which is well worth
a look in itself. On the coast, Wallaroo's safe swimming
beaches and fantastic fishing conditions add to the port's
appeal.
If your travelling into
the Copper Triangle from the base of the Yorke Peninsula,
chances are you'll pass through the small and attractive
inland town of Maitland on the way. Apart from being
a good stopping point for it's tasty bakery and helpful
service station, visitors should also check out town's
National Trust Museum which features backgrounds into both
the local Aboriginal people, as well as the area's many 19th
century German settlers. If travelling into the Triangle
from the top of the Yorke, the highway kisses the coast at
the popular seaside holiday town of Port Broughton,
which over the years has become a very popular destination
among serious anglers.
Travelling
down the east coast of the Yorke Peninsula, the highway
rarely strays further than 2 kilometres from the coastline
on its journey to the heel of this boot shaped land mass.
Originating from Port Wakefield (see Greater Adelaide) at
the top of Gulf St Vincent, the first of the major seaside
towns it passes by, is the grain exporting port of
Ardrossan. Besides the huge grain silos, Ardrossan is
an attractive coastal town, which offers good crabbing and
fishing from its long jetty. In town, the National Trust
Museum's most noteworthy exhibit is an early example of the
"stump jump" plough, a famous invention of the area which
made an enormous difference to South Australian
farmers.
Further
down the coast, the highway runs by the tiny holiday towns
of Pine Point and Port Julia, before arriving
at the sleepy resort of Port Vincent. Port Vincent is
superbly set on a broad, crescent shaped bay, and makes a
top destination for those seeking a relaxing seaside
retreat. There's a good range of accommodation here, and
days are passed with fishing, swimming, and leisurely
strolls along the nature trail skirting the coastline. Less
than twenty kilometres further south, Stansbury
boasts similar qualities, and is yet another laid-back and
popular holiday destination.
24
kilometres south of Stansbury, Edithburgh is the
southern most community enjoying the Gulf St Vincent's
stunning coastline. Apart from its refreshing tidal swimming
pool, quaint old stone buildings, and intriguing maritime
museum, the town's main attraction lies a few kilometres
off-shore on the wonderful Toubridge Island. The island is a
conservation park which protects colonies of penguins,
crested terns, and other handsome sea-going birds. Visitors
to Toubridge even have the rare opportunity to stay in a
lighthouse, and should contact the charter companies in town
for more information. The charters also offer fishing and
diving trips.
From Edithburgh the
coastal highway runs inland, passing through the towns of
Yorketown and Warooka before turning towards
the toe of the Yorke Penisula. If you're heading that way,
it's a wise idea to stock up on supplies in either town
(Yorketown has the largest supermarket), as beyond here the
services are fairly modest. The towns are worth the stop on
any account, both boasting some lovely 19th century
buildings and a couple of fantastic old Aussie
pubs.
At
the toe of the peninsula, Marion Bay is a tiny resort
town beautifully set on the crystal clear waters of the same
name. Although there's not much here besides the multi
functional Marion Bay Store (post office, petrol, takeaway,
fishing tackle, boat hire), a friendly caravan park, and a
small enclave of rentable holiday houses, Marion Bay's
isolation and superb beaches and coastline may be just what
you've been dreaming for. Anglers should also be aware that
the area's renowned for it's great fishing, and Foul Bay
Fishing Charters can give you a hand to catch some of South
Australia's famous whiting and snapper.
Just a few kilometres
south of Marion Bay, the Innes National Park is another good
reason to get yourself to this remote part of the Yorke
Peninsula. The park protects nearly 10 000 hectares of
undulating mallee and heath hinterland, overflowing with
common species like kangaroos and emus, and serving as the
last bastion for some rare birds
like the wonderful mallee fowl. The coastline is equally
alluring, consisting of a seemingly endless stretch of
multi-coloured limestone cliffs and impressive surf and
swimming beaches. A trip to the park must also include the
abandoned gypsum-mining settlement of Inneston, regarded by
many as the area's highlight. Set on a turquoise shallow
lake, visitors can follow a signposted walk which winds
through the remnants of the town's old stone buildings,
rusty mining relics, and curious stone tennis
court.
Travelling back up the
Yorke Peninsula, Minlaton is the southern most town
of any size on the route running along the western edge of
the boot. The township's a good place to stop after the
comparatively lean facilities further south, and also boasts
a couple of good art galleries as well as a memorial and
museum dedicated to the local World War II fighter pilot
ace, Harry Butler.
Text provided
courtesy of FrogandToad.
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