A coastal road winding sinuously around the cliff tops, with the surf of the great southern ocean swelling and crashing onto rocks and beaches; forested hills breached by valleys and streams, creating inlets for quiet seaside villages, brilliant sun and surf - these are the images that remain with the traveller on the Great Ocean Road, the most impressive road journey in Australia.

This region is particularly busy in summer. The holiday houses in Lorne and Anglesea, the camp grounds of Wye River and Kennett River, and other forms of accommodation along the way, are sought by those intent on the beach, the surf and making the most of the coast.

But the area never seems too crowded - it is too big, too elemental, too beautiful. Its mood is ever changing as it stretches from the start of the Great Ocean Road at Torquay to the western border of the state.

The forest areas become inaccessible as they reach into the rugged Otway Ranges, but there are many forest parks with well-established nature trails. Further west lie the farming and forest lands of the south-western plains, and the coastal cliffs of the Port Campbell National Park, cut by the waves of the ocean into sheer sandstone walls.

The small holiday towns of the Otway region give way, further west, to the coastal cities of Warrnambool, Portland and Port Fairy. Beyond Portland lie the coastal and wilderness areas of Cape Bridgewater and Discovery Bay Coastal Park. To walk this quiet coast is an absorbing experience, with the views filling the soul and the ocean winds refreshing the senses.

If you have the time, take it slowly and engage in all the pleasures that the Great Ocean Road region has to offer.

The Great Ocean Road drive between Lorne and Apollo Bay boasts some of the road's most pristine scenery Many say it is the most picturesque along the road, with the dense bush of the Angahook-Lorne State Park continuing almost down to the water's edge and stunning views over the ocean.

There's a handful of small communities nestled against the bushy backdrop in this winding section. Visitors soon discover that the atmosphere is relaxed, in deference to the quiet, unspoilt natural beauty that surrounds you. At Cumberland River, a few kilometres the Apollo Bay side of Lorne, the scenery is postcard-like, with dense bush, a rugged cliff face beside the river and the idyllic grassed camping ground. Wye River is another popular camping and caravanning spot, just 18km from Lorne. A further 5km away is the holiday hamlet of Kennett River. Drive further on to Skenes Creek and the scenery undergoes a dramatic change as the road descends to almost sea-level. Steep hills flatten out and wide, cleared areas are in pasture, indicating the farming nature of the region. From here, you can drive deep into the Otway Ranges on roads that climb to moderate heights among the tall trees.

The whole drive is special, so take time to stop at the lookouts.

There's something special about Lorne. The scenery is simply charming, the atmosphere strictly Mediterranean - a combination that has been drawing visitors to this special place for more than century. Set between the waters of Loutit Bay and the cool Otway forests, Lorne has a charm that's hard to surpass. Add mild weather, a touch of the café culture, shops, boutiques and galleries and it's no wonder Lorne is one of the Great Ocean Road's most popular holiday destinations.

Apollo Bay was first sighted by Lieutenant Grant abroad the sailing vessel Lady Nelson. In 1845, the bay was named by Captain Loutit who sheltered here in his vessel Apollo.

It is not difficult to understand why this part of the world is regarded as 'Paradise by the Sea'.

The town nestles into the picturesque green foothills of the Otway Ranges that roll down to a sweeping arc of golden beaches and sky-blue sea. Dozens of cypress trees dot the wide foreshore reserve, while the fascinating Otway National Park is just a stone's throw away.

More people are slowly discovering what the 1,200 locals already know - Apollo Bay is a special place. The fact that it is further along the Great Ocean Road has probably helped the town retain that unique charm.

Enjoy a drink in one of the old pubs or cafes revamped to cater to the new generation of travellers. (A great place to find a latte - often difficult in rural areas - is La Bimba café on the waterfront. They also have local artwork on the walls for sale).

For the best views over the town, drive up Marriner's Lookout Road. Superb views are to be had although watch out for wandering cows! Another favourite lookout is Crows Nest in Tuxion Road.

Drive a little further, through the Otway forests to the lighthouse, explore nearby forest and waterfall walks, or on a fine day take a scenic plane flight from the Apollo Bay airstrip to the Twelve Apostles.

Alternatively drive a few kilometres out of town past neighbouring Marengo to discover a superb bird's eye view of Apollo Bay's rolling green hills, the Great Ocean Road and Bass Strait beyond.

Apollo Bay makes most of its living from fishing, farming and tourism. And the fishing fleet, moored behind the safety of a huge breakwater, has itself become part of the tourism experience. The specialties - crayfish and abalone - are in big demand.

You can wander along the pier where the boats are moored, past stacks of craypots, and see the fishermen making ready for another trip out to sea. Their fresh-daily catch is readily available from the colourful fishermen's co-operative at the pier entrance.

Nearby is the town's golf course, which has one of the best locations you could imagine - high on the point of the bay with the sea, town and hills in the background.

Apollo Bay, for all its other wonders, is a beach resort with marvellous opportunities to enjoy swimming, surfing or just walking along the sand. Don't forget the many giftshops, galleries and teahouses to explore, plus the regular foreshore market where local arts, crafts and produce are on sale.

Surfing around Torquay and Anglesea

The surf culture really gets under way at Torquay, the 'surf capital' of Australia. Near Torquay there are good reefs known as Insides and Outsides at Point Impossible, but the expert action is at Point Danger, particularly in big winds, when the wave jumpers put on spectacular displays.

Jan Juc beach is a good learning ground, but from there to Bells Beach is a rocky shoreline with a series of reef swells below the cliffs. The first of them is Bird Rock, highly regarded in the golden mile of surf action.

Bells Beach is the classic of the coast, with huge autumn and winter right-hand breaks at Winkipop, Bells, Rincon, Centreside and Southside. The take-off area from the beach is known as The Bowl.

The waves, rated with the best in the world, are created by a rock shelf coming right into shore, on a steady upwards incline, so that waves break consistently. August is thought to be the best month, although the crowds flock around at Easter for the internationally acclaimed Rip Curl Pro and Sunsmart Classic.

It is mostly board surfing territory between Torquay and Anglesea, which has a lovely sheltered bathing beach at Point Roadknight and body surfing at Urquhart Bluff. Anglesea and the nearby Fairhaven have good beginner and body surfing beach breaks, while the long stretch of coast between Airey's Inlet and Lorne is distinguished by Cathedral Rock, the favourite of many west coast surfers.

Surfing from Lorne to Apollo Bay

The surf beach at Lorne gets crowded, but is ideal for bodysurfing and for relaxing on the wide sands. Lorne has beach breaks for beginners and bigger right-handers running into the rocky shores of Lorne Point and, on its western side, at Vera Lynn and off St George's River. Along the coast, between Lorne and Apollo Bay, there are good surf spots at Cumberland River, Wye River, Baldy Rock, Skeneís Creek, Sawmills and Kennett River. The monsters around Apollo Bay are Marengo, Boneyards and Juniors, all just past the town.

The main beach at Apollo Bay, like that of Lorne, can get crowded but is good for bodysurfing - or just taking it easy on the golden sand.

Port Campbell

There's no other experience like it in Victoria. Sculpted by the destructive force of nature's fury, the Twelve Apostles rise majestically from the Southern Ocean.

In the Port Campbell National Park, the Twelve Apostles are some of the world's most-recognised and photographed icons. They are remnants from the constantly eroding limestone plain of the mainland, formed 10 to 20 million years ago from accumulated layers of marine animal remains. There are only 10 apostles left since their naming, as two have since collapsed.

As the sun rises and sets, the Twelve Apostles change their look and mood - from dark and foreboding in shadow to brilliant sandy yellow under a full sun. When you visit - especially when the weather is wild and waves smash relentlessly against the 100m cliffs - you will quickly understand why this rugged shoreline is dubbed the Shipwreck Coast.

The diverse range of coastal environments in Port Campbell National Park includes woodlands, dunes, wetlands, coastal cliffs, limestone stacks and arches. Shell middens along the coast have provided evidence of ancient presence, diverse diet and lifestyle of the KirraeñWurong people. Sealers and whalers were the first European visitors to these shores.

Unlock the many secrets of the shipwrecks by visiting the shipwreck trail. The coastline is famous for many wrecks due to the ferocious conditions.

Incorporating the Twelve Apostles, London Bridge, the Blowhole and Loch Ard Gorge, the sculptured coastline has its origins 10-20 million years ago when billions of tiny skeletal fragments accumulated beneath the sea gradually creating limestone formations. The sea then retreated, leaving the soft limestone exposed to violent seas and strong winds - carving many remarkable features.

The Bay of Islands

The stacks that tower from the ocean in the Bay of Islands create a haunting natural landscape. While the Twelve Apostles are viewed from above, the limestone towers in the Bay of Islands seem to surround the spectator. Short walking tracks lead to a series of lookouts and down on to sandy beaches in sheltered coves. Just offshore, ancient limestone pillars seem to float in the ocean.

Gales often exceed 50km an hour and in winter they rage up to 90km an hour. The Great Australian Bight was eaten out by these winds and the massive waves they generate.

But what dramatic debris capricious Mother Nature leaves in her wake!

The Bay of Islands Coastal Park is a 33km long, narrow strip of coastal heathland that runs alongside a series of secluded coves. Several carparks lead to spectacular lookouts - some best at sunrise and others at sunset. And yet fewer tourists bother to explore this amazing landscape.

The Bay of Martyrs is the first carpark, at the outskirts of Peterborough, and is an ideal place to see the Bay of Islands at sunset. The islands and Massacre Point are backlit by the sun. Travel a short distance to the west to expose the grandeur of the park. From the Bay of Islands car park a series of short walks guide the visitor to viewing areas. View the rock stacks or take a walk to the beach at Boat Bay.

At Childers Cove, further to the west, a giant stack known as ëThe Needleí sank into the sea one day and disappeared forever, just a few years ago. But the surviving stacks still create a magnificent terrain.

Discover the 5 bays of the area. At Massacre Point and Little Massacres Bay, to the west of the Bay of Martyrs, folklore has it that many of the local tribe were slaughtered by white settlers. Throughout the park today, stone fragments and fireplace middens recall the original inhabitants and the swamplands in which they hunted.

Port Fairy's wide streets are lined by 19th century cottages, great Norfolk pines, old stone churches, boarding houses and inns. Many fine examples of the state's architecture remain intact, and more than 50 buildings are classified by the National Trust.

Down on the river, still one of the busiest fishing ports in Victoria, fishermen unload their catch of fish and abalone at the dockside. Cruising boats and expensive racing yachts add colour to mirror images in calm water, while anglers try their luck with the riverís whiting.

As they are all concentrated in the historic section of town, restaurants and cafes tend to specialise their menus. Seafood - be it fresh crayfish, local whiting or braised scallops on risotto - is, of course, a speciality at many restaurants.

Unlucky anglers will find the local fish and chips a great consolation, and lunching at Lunch café is definitely de rigeur. The antique and art and craft shops might also provide a memorable, and valued, reminder of your Port Fairy visit.

Everything in town is within easy walking distance. A walk around the streets reveals the wealth of Victorian history in the simple facades of bluestone cottages with colourful flower-filled gardens, imposing churches, the courthouse down by the river. Worth a closer look are Captain Millsí house and Mottís cottage.

Another easy walk is right off the end of the wharf. Step onto a charter boat and take a guided fishing trip and whale watching tour in winter. Or sit back and enjoy a 4 hour cruise to Lady Julia Percy Island, home to one of the largest seal colonies in southern Australia. It is estimated that there are approximately 15,000 to 20,000 seals and 4 different breeds on the small island.

You'll also find arts and crafts housed in some of Port Fairy's finest historic buildings. There are more than a dozen galleries and studios open to the public, where you can often see the artist at work.

It is not just the well preserved buildings that make Port Fairy such a beautiful town to walk around. Near the superb Lancet Gothic Anglican church there is a rust-roofed, unpainted weatherboard cottage with a few stunted apple trees, old jetty stumps lean towards the sea from pristine sand on Griffiths Island - derelict but beautiful remains of the past.

Port Fairy has always been a haven for the weary and hungry traveller. More than 40 bed and breakfast houses offer warm and comfortable accommodation. Several of them also have fine restaurants attached - you won't want to leave your guesthouse!

As the birthplace of European settlement, Portland is steeped in history, with its past playing a big role in its present and future. Many of its 200 heritage buildings from the 1800's are now fine places to dine and/or to stay.

Visitors can enjoy the special ambience and when it comes to dining, the local fishing industry ensures only the freshest seafood is on the menu. There is always some activity on Portland's waterfront: big ships from around the world coming in to load up, the fishing fleet unloading its catch in the early morning or heading out in the dark of night and people enjoying the wide foreshore reserve.

And for those who like dropping in a line, Portland is an angler's paradise. From a boat or the beach, the range of fish that can be hooked is extensive, including King George whiting, flathead, snapper, tuna and mulloway. Details are available at the Visitor Information Centre.

While locals may want to keep it quiet, Portland has some of the best surf this side of Bells Beach. The choice spots are Watertower, Blacknose, Crumpets, Yellow Rock and Murrells.

And when in Portland during September and October, keep an eye out for southern right whales. These giants of the deep have been seen frolicking close to shore in Portland Bay.

Visit the Portland Maritime Discovery and Visitors Centre, which showcases the maritime history of the region through a sight and sound-filled exhibition. View the oldest surviving intact vessel in Australia, the Portland Lifeboat built in 1858, or take a leisurely walk through the Portland Botanic Gardens, established in 1857.

Mary MacKillop - declared a saint in 1995 for her work with the less fortunate - arrived in Portland in 1862 to work as a governess. Today, you can experience the steps of Mary Mackillop by taking the Mary MacKillop Walk.