Bordered by the Great Sandy Desert and the pristine waters of the Indian Ocean, the wild and remote area known as the Kimberley is one of the country's last great frontiers. Until recently, this rugged landscape was only for hardened pioneers and prospectors, and even they found the going tough. But with the introduction of the National Highway, the Kimberley was on the tourist map, tempting travellers to venture further from the beach mecca of Broome for the first time. Those that do are treated to breathtaking scenery dotted by hospitable and tourist-geared township's, combining to create one of the most rewarding travel experiences you'll find anywhere in Australia.

The only unfortunate aspect of the Kimberley is that it suffers from the climatic extremes of the Wet and Dry seasons, similar to those in the Top End and Cape York Peninsula. During the Wet, the area's mighty rivers can swell to over ten kilometres wide, making the roads impassable for days. Although this rejuvenation period is a spectacular time to visit, the best time is during the Dry between April and October.

On the coast in the south-western tip of the Kimberley, Broome is a detached, tropical oasis which makes a welcome sight after the long journeys from either the Pilbera or the Northern Territory. Even those arriving by air (Broome has it's own international airport) appreciate the townships breathtaking location, not to mention it's lively and cosmopolitian atmosphere.

Lying in between green mangrove mud flats and the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, Broome's early fame derived from it's world-beating pearl industry, attracting fortune seekers from many nations in the late nineteenth century. Today it's best known as one of the nation's true getaways, alluring swarms of tourists dreaming of lazing on unspoilt white beaches in the middle of nowhere. As to be expected of any beach mecca, the townships fabulous shores are matched by a great range of resort and backpacker style accommodations, as well as a healthy variety of multicultural restaurants and outdoor cafes. There's also a number of interesting shops and attractions, many of which showcase the town's speciality of pearling.

Many visitors to Broome coincide their trip with the full moon, in an attempt to witness the Staircase to the Moon. When the conditions are right, the reflections of the moon on the rippling mud flats form what appears to be a golden staircase to the sky. This amazing natural phenomenon is accompanied by a very enjoyable evening market at Town Beach.

Travelling west from Broome and heading for the heart of the Kimberley, the Great Northern Highway begins the next step of its immense journey to the Northern Territory. Just past the Willare Bridge Roadhouse 179 kilometres down the road, the Derby Highway branches left and terminates on the coast at the major settlement of Derby. Worth the 43 kilometre detour, Derby's centre is gracefully set on a small peninsula, enveloped by extensive mud flats and the serene tidal waters of King Sound. Thick vegetation and the lush tropical gardens which line the streets, add to the township's feel and appeal.

Acting as an administration centre for several Aboriginal communities and a hinterland rich in pastoral and mineral wealth, Derby also provides the ideal base from which to explore the spectacular Devonian Reef National Parks. Devonian Reef National Parks is the collective name for three separate parks, once part of the western stretches of the Great Barrier Reef 350 million years ago. The landscapes are now dominated by a series of dramatic gorges, looming over dense tropical forests, trickling rivers and rock pools, and an amazing variety of different wildlife species. You're almost guaranteed to spot some lazy freshwater crocodiles sunning themselves on the sandy banks of a waterhole.

During the wet season, the gorge's meandering rivers turn into gushing torrents, closing all roads into the parks from November to March. During the dry, the gravel roads are best suited to four wheel drives and even then, can be rough. The safest option is to rely on some local experience, and jump on one of the wilderness tours operating out of Derby. Additional tours operate out of Broome as well as the small settlement of Fitzroy Crossing.

Fitzroy Crossing is situated below the Devonian Reef National Parks on the Great Northern Highway, 217 kilometres from the Derby turn-off. Also within close proximity to the parks, it makes the other convenient access point from which to base explorations. The towns facilities reflect this and considering it's size (pop. 1150), boasts a good range of accommodation and organised tours.

In the top east corner of the Kimberley and less than a hundred kilometres from the Northern Territory border, friendly Kununurra is a reasonably new town, established through the introduction of the Ord River irrigation scheme in 1963. Although the community is in it's relevant infancy, it has briskly developed into lively and modern centre, with tourism becoming one of the major industries. Many travellers use the town to base explorations to the stunning attractions contained by the eastern stretches of the Kimberley such as Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) National Park and Lake Argyle, though it's worthy of a visit on it's own merits. Meaning "Big Water", Kununurra's lakeside location lends to an array of recreational and adventure activities, and it's surrounding tropical countryside is filled with much to do and see.

Less than two kilometres from the town's centre, Mirima (Hidden Valley) National Park protects a magical valley of rugged cliffs with amazing markings reminiscent of the Bungle Bungle Range in the Purnululu National Park. The views over this strange landscape are amazing, and a number of lookout points are accessible via several short walking tracks which penetrate this compact and spectacular wilderness area. Brilliant panoramic views over the districts irrigated fields and the sandstone formations of the Kimberley can also be soaked in from the summit of Kununurra's main landmark, Kelly's Knob.

An interesting diversion from the natural wonders of the district are the farms and working dairies in the fertile country around Kununurra. The irrigation of the Ord River has encouraged agriculture on a massive scale, and many properties are open to the public allowing visitors to sample the quality local produce. They've also become a popular destination for backpackers intending to top up their bank balance, with plenty of picking work available from May to September.

Directly south and just over seventy kilometres from Kununurra, Lake Argyle is the Southern Hemisphere's largest body of freshwater, containing enough h2o to fill 18 Sydney Harbours. Although it's size is impressive, the lake's most striking feature is it's sheer beauty. The contrast of the azure blue water against the backdrop of deep orange ridges is breathtaking, creating some of the most picturesque scenery in all of Western Australia. Cruises and tours are the best way to appreciate this vast area's beauty, and the resident Lake Argyle Tourist Village offers a variety of enjoyable options.

Marking the end of the Great Northern Highway less than a hundred kilometres north-west of Kununurra, Wyndham is a tiny port town nestled between the Bastion Range and the expansive mud flats on the tidal waters of the Cambridge Gulf. Smack bang in the middle of crocodile country, this friendly town has two sites; the original and now historical port, and Wyndham East, the present residential and accommodation centre. Most visitors are lured here by the prospect of fantastic, all-year round fishing, where many of Australia's most exotic species are abundant. If not hooked on fishing, the town's sense of history as well as numerous attractions in the surrounding wilderness make it well worth visiting.

A must on any trip Wyndham is the Five Rivers Lookout on top of Mount Bastion. Stunning 360 degree views allow you to follow the meandering paths of the King, Pentecost, Durack, Ord and Forrest River's through the wild landscape of the Kimberly, before they enter the glistening waters of the Cambridge Gulf. Back at sea level, Wyndham Crocodile Farm on Barytes Road have some awesome salties on display, as well as a small number of Komono Dragons. Further out of town, the Marlgu Billabong in Parry Lagoons Reserve, is a lovely wetlands area home to a perpetual population of many beautiful bird species.

Travelling down the Great Northern Highway a little over two hundred kilometres south of Wyndham, Turkey Creek is a small roadhouse settlement owned by the local Warnum Aboriginal People. Not only is it a welcome stop in this mostly uninhabited section of the Kimberley, but it serves as the gateway to the Purnululu National Park.

Previously known as the Bungle Bungles, Purnululu National Park is most likely the reason you've made it to this remote part of the country! If not, adjust your agenda, as this is undoubtedly one of Australia's most unique and exciting wilderness areas, which has simply has to be seen to be believed. Purnululu is a crowded maze of gigantic sandstone "beehives" towering up to 300 metres above the surrounding savannah landscape, etched with brilliant bands of black lichen and orange silica. The sheer spectacle and size of these curious domes is heightened when they come together to form geographical sensation of Catherderal Gorge. The only unfortunate slant on this fantastic and untouched national park is it's accessability. An eighty kilometre four wheel drive track stemming south of Turkey Creek is the sole road into the park, and due to it's fragility during the Wet season, is only open from November to April. This problem has seen the popularity of scenic flights increase dramatically over the years, with the majority of the light plane and helicopter trips operating out of Kununurra. If you'd prefer to go in by land but don't have a four wheel drive, adventure tours begin precedings from Kununurra and Turkey Creek, and 4WD hire is available from the southern Kimberley town of Halls Creek

Halls Creek is an old gold rush town which now supports a vast cattle industry, and more recently an increasing flow of tourists. The crumbling remains of the once bustling mining town are fourteen kilometres outside Hall Creek's new centre, from which patient fossickers are still turning up bits of colour. Closer to town, a near vertical quartz vein protrudes impressively from a rock outcrop, to form the startling white and appropriately named China Wall.

Halls Creek also acts as a distant base to the near kilometre wide Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater. Over 50 metres deep, this impressive site sacred to the Jaru Aboriginal people, is the second largest crater of it's kind in the world. Access is via a formed gravel road suitable for convention vehicles during the Dry Season, and scenic flights are also available from Halls Creek.